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Woken up by the playful seagulls screaming at my window this morning, I can barely see their shadows through the bright morning light. I blink my eyes and squint, trying to understand where I am, though the intense smell of coffee persuades me.
The beauty of the colours mixing with the mediterranean odours, sea breeze, maritime pine and myrtle. I still can smell them, lingering.
What a priceless awakening…
I am enjoining my breakfast watching this deep emerald water and the sun beams dancing on its surface. And I think – this is the day! Let’s sail!
It’s July, the air is hot, sweaty. Only the sea breeze can cool it down. We are at “Cala Dei Sardi, a small port in Smeralda Coast. We have chosen it because of its beauty, it’s a quiet place where you are surrounded only by nature. So peaceful here.
The catamaran is loaded with our essentials – kites, boards, canoes and SUP. Everyone is up, everyone is ready. A quick check of the route, the compass, and the sails are open. Our skipper, “Jack Sparrow” as we call him, is ready to go. Actually, I had some doubts about this after last night’s party. The anchor is up and we sail towards “Isola Dei Gabbiani”.
The sea is almost flat in the middle of “La Maddalena” national park, between the countless small islands; what a joy for the eyes. It’s enough to make us stop for a while. A quick incursion on the Spargi Island, than back to sail to our destination – the bays around Porto Pollo .
“Chi gioca al timone, chi è sotto il piumone, chi tira la vela, chi mangia una mela, chi studia il vento, felice e contento… e il cielo è sempre più blu!!!”
(Whom play with the wheel, whom it’s under the quilt,
Who is eating an apple, who is studying the wind,
Cheerful and Thoughtless
That the sky be always bluer!!!)
Excellent news, perfect weather condition as we were sure about, Porto Pollo is a guarantee. It has been discovered by the legend Robby Naish. Here the trade wind is ensured all year round.
Tramontane brings the spring flowers, Maestrale and Ponente freshen up summer heat, and Scirocco takes out the last boats in autumn. From 9 to 12 knots, perfect wind.
We were kiting all the day long. On one side of the bay the wind entering from the sea makes the water choppy and creates perfect waves to ride, on the other side of the bay the water is flat and calm – you can find conditions for all levels and tastes.
The sun is going down. We put the anchor near Porto Pozzo harbour, another beautiful port.
Our skipper Jack has local friends who open their market only for us so we can buy fresh seafood and the local cheese of that indescribable taste. Some prefer to dine in a restaurant on the beach, some like me prefer to stay on the boat enjoying the sunset embraces me in its warm orange colour. Tomorrow, we’re waking up at sunrise.
The next four days we spent in a magic land, built on the rocks that reflect well the character of the Corsican people.
Corsica is to be discovered, slowly, whispering to the natural harmony. We don’t want to leave traces as we pass through, in order to keep the spirit of this land in the heart of the Mediterranean Sea, with solid roots of culture and the tradition of its people. Plage de la Tonnare, Santa Manza, Piantarella and Ile Piana, heart-breaking destinations that take your breath away. How can I describe them? Well, imagine empty beaches, so wild that they seem almost untouched, completely deserted small paradise islands and that water … that water, of intense cobalt color.
Everyone’s out with the kites! Restless, from sunrise to sunset. Days full of emotions. Satisfied we got the best out of every single moment. My arms are still hurting if I think of the races in canoes. And those excursions with the SUP made us appreciate every insight. Those moments are printed in my memory, like postcards.
And I would send mine from Ile Piana. Like bright explosive fireworks. As we were dancing at that party, meanwhile we were as guards of this piece of land wearing white clothes to shine in the dark. Between fireplaces, music and singing, we are surprised to find the same vibe in Bonifacio. Fireworks brighten up the darkness as we admire for the last time the wonders of this island.
After days stolen by dreams we leave behind that fortress pressured in those giant hill rocks and its fish markets down to port, the small boutiques, perched on the long steps, and the smell of freshly baked croissants.
“You seduced us with a guitar sound, played by the man with that striped shirt memories of sailors.. singing words, familiar to us”
Bonifacio, a hidden pearl incarnated in its stone shell. And like seagulls we follow the wind until Porto Cervo, where the road back home awaits us. The sails full of wind we pass Budelli, a UNESCO heritage site, with its pink sand. La Maddalena, the place that hides enchanted wonders.
Here it is, Porto Cervo. You recognize it from afar. Shines bright like a Diamond, you know it? It’s famous for this.
